![]() |
|
(Also see 'Fish Handling', Section 4)
Use a main line of 5.4kg (12lb) minimum breaking strain.
Correctly placed hooks in bait fish no larger than 20cm (8in) are recommended to minimise the chances of deep hooking. As a guide, for most suspended baits, place the top hook in the dorsal fin root and the other behind the pectoral fin. For legered baits, place the top hook in the tail root and the other no further forward than the dorsal fin.
Wire traces must always be used, with a minimum breaking strain of 6.8kg (15lbs), preferably 11.7-13.6kg (25-30lbs). Use a minimum length of 450mm (18in) for bait and 15in for lure fishing.
When paternostering or suspending a bait, use a wire uptrace at least 150mm (6in) longer than the main trace. Check traces regularly for kinking or fraying, and dispose of safely if this occurs.
Use semi-barbless hooks which should be of the smallest sizes (size 10, 8 and 6) consistent with the safe landing and handling of the fish. Do not use stainless steel hooks as, in the event of losing a hook in a fish or snag, they will not degrade.
Never wait for a second run. Strike as soon as you are sure that the fish has the bait in its jaws.
Gaffs should NEVER be used. Always use a large knotless landing net. (Gaffs are now illegal in all Agency regions.)
Backbiters. When using drop-back/backbiter type indicators, care should be taken to ensure that they are set up properly, i.e. to indicate a slack line or drop-back take which occurs when a fish picks up the bait and moves toward the angler. The line (which should be tightened down to the bait) is clipped up to the indicator sight head just behind the reel spool. The indicator arm should be parallel with the rod butt, allowing the arm to drop through 90° in the event of a slack line or drop-back take.
Forward takes, i.e. when the fish picks up the bait and moves away from the angler, will be registered by the line being pulled from the clip and the arm dropping from horizontal to vertical.
Backbiters occasionally freeze in position, so in sub-zero temperatures check them regularly.
Freelining. At no time should a freelined bait be employed. This method is likely to result in a late indication of a take, potentially resulting in a deeply hooked fish. The only exceptions to this are if you have visual contact with the bait, or when fishing sink and draw.
Fly fishing for pike. The following points should be noted.
A rod
with a minimum AFTM rating of 10 weight is essential Lure Fishing
Standard forceps may be inadequate for lure fishing, so a pair of fine nosed pliers with long handles is better, or alternatively a tool called a HookOut is also recommended. These give better leverage on the hook, and keep your hand clear of both the pike's teeth and any free hooks. If difficulty is still experienced in removing the trebles then cut the hook with a strong pair of side cutters or small bolt croppers. Close your eyes when cutting the hook in case the cut piece flies in your direction, and remove the cut pieces of hook with pliers.
A wire trace of at least fifteen inches of 30lb test with a strong swivel and snap link is essential when lure fishing for pike or zander, coupled with a minimum 15lb line. The use of braided lines of higher breaking strains also offers greater sensitivity than nylon monofilament while being no thicker. For techniques such as jerkbait fishing specialised tackle is required and even 15lb line is not sufficiently strong to withstand constant casting. Handling
Handle all pike and zander with the utmost care. On landing, lay them in the landing net on an unhooking mat, never on uncovered hard ground. When boat fishing, be sure to protect the fish from the bottom boards with an unhooking mat or other suitable soft material.
To help with unhooking, all predator anglers should carry a set of 250mm (10in) forceps and cutters suitable not only for cutting trace wire, but also for cutting through a hook.
To control the fish during unhooking, place it on its back on the mat while still in the landing net. By kneeling astride the fish, strategically placed folds of the net over the fish can be used to control it. To provide a confidence boost for the next stage, wear a glove on the left hand (right hand if you are left handed) and carefully slip the fingers of your gloved hand beneath the gill cover, taking care not to damage the gill rakers, and slide your fingers forward until they rest on the back of the lower jaw. Light upward pressure will persuade the fish to open its mouth and with the use of 250mm (10in) forceps the hooks can be easily removed. This technique makes gags redundant and they should not be used. In the event that the hooks are further back a 'deep throat' disgorger can also be a valuable aid. A hook in the back of the fish's throat can sometimes best be reached by carefully inserting the forceps via the gill cover. Great care must be taken to not damage the gill rakers. If you are in any doubt or are unsure, sack the fish safely and seek the assistance of another angler. Four hands are often better than two.
Always consider the welfare of the fish first. Be prepared to offer assistance to other anglers, especially if they appear to have difficulties or seem to be inexperienced. If in doubt yourself, do not be afraid to seek assistance.
Treble hooks can tangle and knot in the landing net mesh. If this happens it is best to use wire cutters to cut out each hook of the treble at the bend in order to extract from the net. The use of special large mesh landing nets will help eliminate this problem.
Weighing should be carried out by using a weigh sling or soft net, not with the balance hook under the chin of the fish.
Pike and zander may look tough, but they have a greater tendency than others to suffer as a result of poor handling, stress and low concentrations of dissolved oxygen. Bear this is mind, especially in warm weather when they fight hard and should be landed, and returned to the water, with the minimum of fuss.
Nylon-covered wire can quickly deteriorate and should be safely discarded after each session.
Double check that all the elements of your tackle are sound and capable of doing the job properly and safely.
See Appendix K for instructions on unhooking pike.
See the following pages for safe pike and zander rigs.
We are indebted to the Pike Anglers' Club of Great Britain for their specialised advice on pike handling and care.
|